Whirlpool is an American corporation situated in Benton Harbor, Michigan. As of today, it is known to be the largest manufacturer of home appliances in the world. Delivering high-class appliances to many houses worldwide for over 100 years, this company continues to expand and provide excellent customer satisfaction. Currently, it has eight manufacturing sites in America. Each is located in Iowa, Tennessee, Ohio, Oklahoma, Clyde, Ottawa, Findlay, and Greenville. With this company, you can expect nothing but world-class products and services such as repair.
ARS appliances repair provides service and support section wherein you can keep track of your appliances. You can also get to find manuals and guides on how to properly use or take care of the home equipment. Get recommendations for parts and schedule a repair service through a secured network. When scheduling a repair service online, you will have to first describe the issue and provide other details about the model of your home appliance. Afterwards, you will have to include the details of your location and preferred time before confirming the details.
All of your service calls and repairs will be performed by certified, highly-skilled technicians. Remember that appliances within 1 year will be covered for manufacturer’s warranty therefore it’s recommended to contact Whirlpool. If your warranty is over, you can call us at 866-415-3937 (we are currently not authorized to repair in-warranty whirlpool appliances).
You can also make a repair request via their telephone line. Whirlpool’s customer service hotline is always open for scheduling, rescheduling and cancelling booked appointments. Dial 1-800-253-1301 from Mondays thru Fridays at 8am-8pm to discuss your concern. If you have availed for an extended service plan, you will have to call the indicated provider on the contract for direct scheduling.
Whirlpool Dryer Repair:
Whether your Whirlpool dryer is electric, our pros are here for you. They’ll get your Whirlpool model from Front Loading (LDR), HE Dryer with steam refresh (WGD), Large Capacity Gas (WGD), Electric Dryer (YWED), Heat Pump Dryer (YWHD), Top Load Dryer or other Whirlpool dryers working as they should. Contact our customer reps between 8 am and 9 pm if you experience any dryer problems, including Dryer repair:
- Your dryer won’t start or stay on
- The drum rotates, but there’s no heat
- The dryer turns on, but the drum doesn’t tumble
- The steam cycle isn’t working
- Moisture sensing AccuDry™ or AutoDry™ system is faulty
- Error messages on display
- The ventless compact dryer is creating too much moisture
- The drum turns but vibrates, makes odd noises, or creates a burning smell
For all your Whirlpool dryer repair concerns, contact MAAR24. Our Whirlpool repair specialists have up-to-date Technical Standards and Safety Authority documentation and are licensed, gas fitters.
It’s normal for clothes dryers to make a bit of noise during operation. However, it can be concerning when a dryer makes strange noises/too noisy. That may indicate a problem with your appliance.
Prevent your dryer from breaking down unexpectedly by regular service and care. With routine service, you keep your dryer operating under normal conditions without strange noises or too much noise.
- A loud vibrating noise from your dryer can cause worry. A vibrating dryer is an issue as it can cause damage to your dryer and the surrounding floor and walls, as well as giving you a headache.
- Does your dryer refuse to spin after a certain amount of time working, or is it leaving your wet clothes after after hours of drying? This article will help teach you about common issues that may lead to dryers not spinning and what you can do to solve such problems.
Imagine leaving your clothes in the dryer and it taking forever to dry? It’s frustrating right? If your dryer won’t heat up, you’ll need to get it fixed. This guide will help teach you how to fix basic dryer heating problems on your own.
Your dryer is one of the most convenient appliances in your home. Most people don’t have time to hang their clothes before work in the morning, but a dryer can help to have their work clothes ready quickly. When your dryer breaks down it can cause quite the laundry pile up.
Dryers are supposed to be hot. After all, they can’t dry your clothes if they are cold. That being said, if your dryer gets too hot then it is a huge cause for concern, posing as a fire risk.
The main purpose of a dryer is for it to dry your clothes quickly and efficiently. Unfortunately, poorly maintained or faulty dryers can take a longer than desirable time to dry your clothes.
The last thing you want from your dryer is for it to make your freshly washed clothes smell bad. However, poorly looked after and old machines can often create a nasty odor that needs fixing.
Imagine leaving your clothes in the dryer and it taking forever to dry? It’s frustrating right? If your dryer won’t heat up, you’ll need to get it fixed. This guide will help teach you how to fix basic dryer heating problems on your own.
DRYER WON`T STOP
Your favourite shirt is in the dryer and you can’t wait to take it out and wear it, but then you notice that your dryer is not stopping. This can be a very frustrating issue. But don’t worry, there are a couple different reasons this could be happening, and the team at Express Repair is just a phone call away when you need help with your dryer.
Causes:
- Door switch: if you open the dryer door and it continues to spin, there is likely an issue with the dryer door switch. The dryer door switch is a safety mechanism that signals to the dryer to stop when the door is open. So, when you open the door and it does not immediately stop, you are going to have to get the switch looked at.
- Timer: the timer determines how long your cycle runs for by sending signals to the dryer when it is time to start or stop. If the timer is not working properly, it won’t be able to send the signal to the dryer to stop, and the dry cycle will continue to run.
- Cycling thermostat: if your dryer comes with an auto dry function and you use it, this feature uses something called a cycling thermostat. This thermostat is what advances the timer to signal the machine to stop. If the cycling thermostat is not working correctly and is not accurately reading the temperature, it will not signal the timer, and the machine will continue to run.
- Cool down thermostat: if your dryer comes with a feature that continues to spin the clothing once they are dry to reduce wrinkles, it more than likely uses a cool down thermostat. This thermostat allows the drum to continue spinning until it reaches a certain temperature. If this thermostat is not working correctly, it can cause the dryer to continue spinning until you manually turn it off.
Imagine leaving your clothes in the dryer and it taking forever to dry? It’s frustrating right? If your dryer won’t heat up, you’ll need to get it fixed. This guide will help teach you how to fix basic dryer heating problems on your own.
You want to dry those clothes you’ve just washed but your Dryer won’t turn on. What an absolute nightmare. Maybe the weather is bad and you can’t hang them up to dry outside or your radiators won’t heat fast enough.
There are however a few options you can try yourself before you get your wallet out and to pay for a repairman or even a new dryer. We have a few solutions for you to try out yourself below.
Does your dryer refuse to spin after a certain amount of time working, or is it leaving your wet clothes after after hours of drying? This article will help teach you about common issues that may lead to dryers not spinning and what you can do to solve such problems.
Frustrated how your dryer just goes off at the middle of cycle before your clothes get dried, without you knowing what exactly the problem might be?
To correct the problem, it’s important to know some common reasons why your dryer doesn’t complete a cycle, as it could just involve a minor repair that can be done yourself.
It’s normal for clothes dryers to make a bit of noise during operation. However, it can be concerning when a dryer makes strange noises/too noisy. That may indicate a problem with your appliance.
Prevent your dryer from breaking down unexpectedly by regular service and care. With routine service, you keep your dryer operating under normal conditions without strange noises or too much noise.
DRYER TRIPPING BREAKER
Nothing is more frustrating than when you are trying to get the laundry done but your dryer keeps tripping your circuit breaker. You’re probably wondering what is causing your dryer to trip the breaker, but don’t worry, we’re here to help with whatever issue it could be.
Causes:
- Heating element & heating element assembly: the heating element is what heats up your dryer so that your wet clothes can dry. If the heating element fails, it can short out the heating housing, which can then cause your dryer to trip the breaker. If the problem is with the heating element, it will need to be replaced.
- Internal short: there is the possibility that one of the internal components of your dryer has caused an internal short, which then trips the breaker. There are several components that can cause an internal short such as a poor door switch, the timer, or the motor.
- Terminal block: electric dryers have a series of power cords that all attach at the terminal block. If any of the wires have come loose, they can arc, which will destroy part of the terminal block. If this occurs, the wire can short out against the dryer, causing the dryer to trip the breaker.
- Drive motor: if the drive motor inside of your dryer is faulty, it can short out internally. If the drive motor shorts out internally, it will cause the dryer to trip the breaker.
- If none of these common causes are the culprit behind tripping your circuit breaker, the problem may be the circuit breaker itself. Over time, circuit breakers become worn out and weak. If a breaker has become weak, and can trip repeatedly. You will require a professional electrician to deal with this issue.
Common Dryer Parts That We Can Replace:
- Bearing Kit
- Blower
- Circuit Board
- Controls
- Door Catch
- Door Gaskets
- Door Switch
- Drum Bearing
- Drum Belt
- Drum Support Rollers
- Flame Sensor
- Flexible Duct
- Fuses
- Heater Duct
- Heating Element
- High-limit Thermostat
- Idler Pulley
- Knob, Dial and Button
- Monitors
- Motor
- Springs
- Timer
- Vent
Whirlpool Stove Repair:
We repair and maintain all models from Low Profile Microwave Hood combination (WML & YWML), Over-the-Range Microwave (WMH & YWMH), Countertop Microwave (WMC, YWMC, & YWMHA), plus older model lines of Whirlpool microwaves. If your Whirlpool microwave isn’t working correctly or has any of these problems Stove repair:
- The microwave doesn’t turn on
- Electronic touch controls don’t work
- The steam cooking function won’t work
- The door latch isn’t catching
- The digital display has an error message or not working
- The turntable isn’t rotating
- Heats unevenly, or not at all
- Faulty sensor spoils cooking
- Exhaust fan is not working properly
- The light bulb is burnt out
Things get very stressful in the kitchen when the stove burner won’t heat. The pressure is on to get the food ready on time and your stove doesn’t want to cooperate. This is a scary scenario that you should avoid at all times.
Luckily, there are things you can do to avoid this dilemma. Having routine service done for your kitchen stove is a primary and most effective way to ensure that it’s working 100%.
It’s also important to know the main causes of why a stove burner won’t heat. This way you can readily apply proper solutions.
One thing you probably dislike in cooking is when a stove can’t maintain temperature. This problem can easily mess with your cooking time. It also affects the outcome of your dish. You may end up with raw, tough meat.
You can avoid this hassle by regularly checking on the condition of your stove. Qualified technicians know what to inspect so consider scheduling them for regular visits.
If you find yourself searching for ‘can’t adjust heat on stove’ you have a legitimate problem. Burners that won’t heat to and stay at the temperature you need make cooking almost anything impossible. Basically this renders the stove un-usable.
Before you haul the offending appliance off to the land fill and resign yourself to the expense of a new stove, there are some common issues that you can check for. Because this issue involves electricity safety should be first on your mind.
Sometimes something falls or drops onto your glass top stove and cracks the glass, and other times the glass can crack from other factors. This can be a very irritating issue. However, it can also be an extremely dangerous issue.
NEVER use your stove if the glass top is cracked or shattered. Even the smallest cracks are dangerous and the stove should never be used as cracks increase your risk of being electrocuted.
If you’re cooking dinner on your stove and notice the burner start to spark, that can startle you! And you’re probably thinking, “why is it doing that?!” Don’t worry though, our team of professional repairmen are here to help. If your stove burner is sparking, this is dangerous and can be a fire hazard, so it should be fixed right away.
Causes:
- Loose connectors: as time goes on and you use your burners frequently, the connection can become loose. When the connection starts to loosen, it can cause high resistance, which can cause the wires to overheat and burn or arc, causing sparks.
- Frayed wires: overtime the insulation on the wires that are connected to the burner may begin to fray. If the wires start to fray, they can cause arcing and sparks. You will need to replace these wires.
- Damaged coil: Overtime, as you frequently use your burners, the coils can become damaged. If the coils have any cracks, bubbles, or blisters, this can cause sparking and you will have to replace your burner.
- Defective element: if there doesn’t appear to be any damage or problems with your burner but it is sparking, it may be defective and needs to be replaced.
Nothing is more frustrating than when your oven knob won’t turn and you have food to cook! However, the good news is that this problem is generally easy to fix!
If your oven knob is not turning, the problem is likely with the peg shaft or the knob cap. To begin fixing the issue, you need to take the knob handle off. To get the knob off, gently pull it off with your hand or ease it off with a butter knife.
Now that the knob is off, you can take a look at the peg shaft. When you are inspecting and fixing issues, always make sure to be careful, as if done incorrectly you can cause additional problems to your oven.
To inspect the peg shaft, you will notice a peg protruding from the cooker front. Take a pair of pliers and gently try to turn the peg to change the temperature. If the peg turns and works successfully, the issue is with the knob, which can easily be replaced. If the peg still does not move when you try to turn it, the peg has probably gotten stuck. You can simply add some WD40 to the peg and allow it to soak in. Then, try turning the peg again, if it still does not move, you will need to call a professional to help you fix the issue.
If you’re done cooking and the stove burner won’t turn off, it can be concerning and dangerous. Not only is it dangerous to your safety, but it can also be a fire hazard. You are going to need to fix this issue as soon as possible.
Causes:
- Broken knob: if the knob on the stove is broken, it won’t be able to turn the temperature off. You can try removing the knob handle and manually turn the temperature off with a pair of pliers by turning the peg.
- Electronic or control pad error: Sometimes the electronics or control pad in your stove encounter an error and the stove will not receive the message that it needs to turn off. Try unplugging the oven from the wall and waiting 60 seconds before plugging it back in to see if this resets the oven.
- Faulty surface element: if the surface element shorts out, the burner may not be able to turn off. As well, if the electrical contacts have fused together, this will send constant voltage to the burner, meaning it will not be able to turn off and will need to be replaced.
- Faulty surface element switch: the surface element switch indicates to the stove when it needs to turn off. If the switch shorts out, the stove won’t get the message to turn off.
Whirlpool Oven Repair:
Regardless of if your Whirlpool stove is electric, convection or gas one, our experts are the one you can trust. We repair and maintain all model lines like Electric Double Convection Ranges (YWGE), Single Oven Freestanding (YWFC), Slide-in Electric Ranges (YWEE & YWEEA), Electric Front Control Ranges (YWEE), Convection Freestanding Ranges (YWFE), Freestanding Gas Ranges (WFG), Front Control Gas Ranges (WEG & WEGA), Gas Double Oven Ranges with Center Oval Burner (WGG), as well as older Whirlpool oven and stove models, using all the necessary Whirlpool parts Oven repair.
Call MAAR24 service technicians for all your Whirlpool oven repairs, including Whirlpool gas stove repair and Whirlpool electric stove repair, fixing any issues. Even if you face the following:
- The stovetop or oven won’t work
- The broiler isn’t working
- The oven doesn’t cook evenly
- AccuBake™ system is faulty
- Self-cleaning won’t operate
- The frozen Bake™ function failed
- The oven door won’t close fully
- The EZ-2-Lift™ grate hinges are seized
- The cooktop is slow to heat
- The convection fan makes weird noises
The oven is a valuable and often taken-for-granted appliance. You turn the dial to the desired temperature, wait the standard 10 minutes for it to heat up and.. voila! You’re ready to create your culinary masterpiece. But what happens when that perfect temperature starts to drop? Worst-case scenario; you need a new stove. Best case scenario; the problem is a simple fix that you can do yourself.
You’re trying to put dinner in the oven and it just won’t start? “Oh no!” you’re probably thinking. When your oven doesn’t turn on it can feel quite stressful and needs to be sorted as soon as possible.
It’s a good job there are some troubleshooting steps you can take to try and fix your oven. Looking after your oven can have a range of long-lasting benefits to make your life easier.
If your oven door does not close properly, the heat will escape from your oven. This can lead to cooking times that are all off and uneven baking. You could even burn yourself from the heat leaking from the door. This is definitely an issue that needs a swift repair.
This is where we can help. Regular maintenance on your oven can help stop issues from cropping up and extend the life of your oven.
Running the self cleaning cycle on your oven has the possibility of causing issues to it. As well, there could be an issue with your oven that is preventing your self cleaning cycle from working. These issues can be extremely frustrating to deal with. But don’t worry, our team has all the experience needed to repair any oven issues!
Causes:
- Door latch switch: If something is wrong with your door latch switch, the oven cleaning cycle will not begin. The door switch allows the oven door to lock, and the cycle will only run if the door is able to lock.
- Door lock motor and switch assembly: as mentioned above, the door switch allows the oven door to lock, and the cleaning cycle will only run if the door is locked. The switch is what activates the door lock motor to keep the oven door locked during the self cleaning cycle. If the door lock motor and switch assembly is faulty, the door will remain locked after the cleaning cycle is over and you will not be able to open the door.
- Temperature control thermostat: this thermostat is what regulates the temperature of the oven. If the temperature control thermostat is faulty, it may not work during the self cleaning process. It is possible for this thermostat to work correctly during backing cycles but not for the cleaning cycle.
- Thermal fuse: the job of the thermal fuse is to shut the power off to the oven when it gets too hot, to avoid overheating. It is possible for the thermal fuse to blow while the self cleaning cycle is running. If this happens, you will have to replace it.
If your oven interior light is not working, it can be a pain. You’re constantly having to open the oven to see how your meal is coming along, which affects the time taken to cook and the quality of your food. Have you ever baked a cake while opening the oven door to check on it? The result is a pancake!
Getting regular maintenance carried out on your oven and other kitchen appliances can help prevent issues like this from cropping up. There are a few easy fixes that you too can try to sort out this frustrating issue.
The oven is a valuable and often taken-for-granted appliance. You turn the dial to the desired temperature, wait the standard 10 minutes for it to heat up and.. voila! You’re ready to create your culinary masterpiece. But what happens when that perfect temperature starts to drop? Worst-case scenario; you need a new stove. Best case scenario; the problem is a simple fix that you can do yourself.
It can be incredibly frustrating when you need to bake something, but your oven is not baking it evenly! Chances are, you don’t know why your oven is causing your food to bake unevenly. Don’t worry, there are a few common causes to explain this, and our technicians are always here to help!
One reason may be that your oven is not calibrated correctly. If the oven is not level, it will not cook food evenly. If your oven calibration is off, you are going to want an expert technician to help you fix this problem.
Another reason your oven may not be baking evenly is because the heat is not distributed evenly. This can be caused by a dirty oven fan or a door that is not closing properly. Make sure to clean the oven fan and check the door seals to ensure that they are in good condition.
The issue could also be as simple as moving around your oven racks. If your food is burnt on top but undercooked at the bottom, then it may be time for a little more labour. You may need to lower the racks in order for it all to cook equally, and even rotate them as they’re cooking so there’s no uneven spots.
If you are a person who uses their oven broiler, you may be upset when you start facing problems with it. There is no reason to worry when the team at Express Repair can help you with any broiler problem you may be facing.
Causes:
- Burnt out broil element: when the broil element is working properly, it glows a bright red when heated up, and will not glow if it is not working. You are able to check for holes or blisters on the element that can help indicate if it has burnt out. You can use a multimeter to check for continuity on the broil element. If it does not have continuity, it has burnt out and will need to be replaced.
- Temperature control thermostat: this thermostat regulates the temperature of the broiler. If the thermostat is no longer working, it will not be able to heat up the broiler element. When the thermostat malfunctions, you will need to replace it as it is not repairable.
- Oven control board: The control board sends voltage to the bake and broil circuits when you need to use them. If the control board is faulty, it may not be able to send the voltage to the broil circuit. Before you replace the control board, make sure you have tested all other possibilities and causes of the broiler problem.
The oven is a valuable and often taken-for-granted appliance. You turn the dial to the desired temperature, wait the standard 10 minutes for it to heat up and.. voila! You’re ready to create your culinary masterpiece. But what happens when that perfect temperature starts to drop? Worst-case scenario; you need a new stove. Best case scenario; the problem is a simple fix that you can do yourself.
The oven fan not working correctly is a common, and sometimes noisy, problem that your oven can face. Our technicians are well experienced in solving all kinds of oven problems, so you can trust our team!
Causes:
- Oven fan element is faulty: if you check your oven and feel it blowing cold air and the thermostat light is on, then the problem is likely with the fan element. If the fan element is damaged, it will not work correctly. You will need to get a technician to check this problem out for you.
- Oven fan motor malfunction: if you notice that the oven fan sounds noisy or moves slow, the problem could be with the fan motor. For safety reasons, when it comes to inspecting the oven fan, you should always trust a reliable technician to inspect it instead of trying it yourself. To check if the motor is faulty, the technician will ensure the oven is off and unplugged. They will try to turn the fan blades by hand, and if they feel stiff then the problem is likely with the motor. They can also check to see if the fan blades need to be cleaned, as sometimes they get covered in gunk, and cleaning may solve the problem.
- Wrong oven setting: if the fan and the heating are both not working on your oven, check to see which mode the oven has been set to. If it has been set to “auto” mode, this could be the problem. Simply change your oven back to the “manual” setting.
If your oven door does not close properly, the heat will escape from your oven. This can lead to cooking times that are all off and uneven baking. You could even burn yourself from the heat leaking from the door. This is definitely an issue that needs a swift repair.
This is where we can help. Regular maintenance on your oven can help stop issues from cropping up and extend the life of your oven.
Sometimes our ovens start having issues and we’re not sure why. This can be incredibly frustrating, especially since ovens are such an important part of the kitchen and your everyday use!
If you’re having problems with your oven, one of the possibilities is the oven temperature sensor. Here are some common problems that are caused by an oven temperature sensor issue:
- Longer cooking times than usual: if you are having to prolong your usual cooking time by 10 or 20 minutes, this can mean the temperature sensor isn’t gauging the proper temperature.
- Undercooked food: if you take out your food when it should be perfectly cooked, but it is actually undercooked, the sensor may only be heating the oven to a fraction of the set temperature.
- Unevenly cooked food: if you pull your food out of the oven and half of it is cooked or overcooked while the other half is still raw, chances are the temperature sensor needs to be replaced.
- Oven overheating: The oven overheating is the most serious issue caused by a faulty temperature sensor. If you set the oven temperature to 350 degrees but it rapidly heats up to 450 degrees, this is a serious issue and you will want to get it fixed as soon as possible.
Nothing is more frustrating than when your oven knob won’t turn and you have food to cook! However, the good news is that this problem is generally easy to fix!
If your oven knob is not turning, the problem is likely with the peg shaft or the knob cap. To begin fixing the issue, you need to take the knob handle off. To get the knob off, gently pull it off with your hand or ease it off with a butter knife.
Now that the knob is off, you can take a look at the peg shaft. When you are inspecting and fixing issues, always make sure to be careful, as if done incorrectly you can cause additional problems to your oven.
To inspect the peg shaft, you will notice a peg protruding from the cooker front. Take a pair of pliers and gently try to turn the peg to change the temperature. If the peg turns and works successfully, the issue is with the knob, which can easily be replaced. If the peg still does not move when you try to turn it, the peg has probably gotten stuck. You can simply add some WD40 to the peg and allow it to soak in. Then, try turning the peg again, if it still does not move, you will need to call a professional to help you fix the issue.
If you’re done cooking and your oven won’t turn off, this can seem like a big problem. When your oven doesn’t turn on it can feel quite stressful and needs to be sorted as soon as possible.
Causes:
- Oven control board: the oven control board uses relays to send voltage to the bake and broil circuits. If one of these relay shorts is closed, continuous voltage may be delivered to the heating circuit. If the oven is turned off and still heats, it is likely a broken control board that needs to be replaced.
- Bake and broil element: if one of the heating elements burns out, it can cause a short in the oven. If the heating element has shorted out, the oven will not turn off. You can check to see if there is any damage such as holes or blisters on the element that may indicate a short. If there is, you will need to replace the element. Similarly, the broil element can short out causing the same problem.
If the fan in your oven is still running after you have turned off your oven, there may be a problem. Our technicians have plenty of experience working on all sorts of oven problems and are available to help.
Causes:
- Faulty temperature sensor: if the temperature sensor is faulty, it may think your oven is still hot, even if it is not. This means the fan will continue to run, even if the oven is cool.
- Faulty control thermostat: the control thermostat regulates the temperature of the oven and starts the fan if the oven gets too hot. If the thermostat is faulty, it may turn the fan on even when it is not hot.
- Faulty cooling fan thermostat: The cooling fan thermostat starts the fan when the oven gets hot. If the fan continues to operate after the oven has cooled down, the issue may be with this thermostat.
Common Oven Parts That We Can Replace
- Baffle
- Coil Surface Element
- Control Knob
- Convection Oven
- Door Switch
- Fan Blade
- Gasket
- Grease Filter
- Oven Burner
- Oven Igniter
- Oven Thermocouple
- Oven Bake Element
- Oven Broil Element
- Oven Convection Fan
- Oven Igniter
- Oven Light Bulb
- Oven Rack
- Oven Vent Tube
- Sealed Surface Burner
- Spark Electrode
- Spark Module
- Terminal Block
Whirlpool Dishwasher Repair:
If your Whirlpool dishwasher sits broken and whether it’s a top control or front control dishwasher with stainless steel tub (WDT, WDTA, & WDF), a heavy-duty portable (WDP), a quiet dishwasher (UDT), or an older model series, we’ll have it working in no time. Contact our customer reps if you have any of these problems Dishwasher repair:
- The dishwasher doesn’t work
- The total coverage spray arm seems stuck
- Dishes aren’t clean or dry
- AccuSense is not functioning properly
- Fan dry isn’t working
- The 1-Hour cycle takes longer than an hour
- Won’t fully drain the tub
- It doesn’t seem to get enough water to clean dishes
For all your Whirlpool dishwasher repairs and Whirlpool technical support needs, contact MAAR24 — from 7:30 am to 9 pm throughout the week. Our licensed technicians are experienced in servicing all types of Whirlpool appliances.
Common dishwasher issues
“The dishwasher is leaking!” Not words anyone wants to hear. Hiring a repairman is expensive. A new dishwasher is even more costly. Of course, you could go back to doing the dishes by hand. But the situation may not be as dire as all that.
Before you call the repairman or resign yourself to dishpan hands, there are some things you can do. First of all, consider doing regular maintenance.
One cause of panic in the kitchen is when you have dishes come out of dishwasher dirty. It’s important that you can rely on your dishwasher to take care of dirty dishes for you.
For a busy person like you, a malfunctioning dishwasher means piles of unsightly and unsanitary soiled, sticky plates and cutlery you don’t have time or strength to deal with.
It’s a good thing that you can remedy this problem. What’s even better is that you avoid this type of problem by properly maintaining the condition of your dishwasher.
Opening your dishwasher to find that the load is still wet is frustrating, to say the least. A range of things could be the cause of the problem, such as how you have loaded the contents, malfunctioning dishwasher parts, or a combination of both.
It’s no good to wash your dishes when the dishwasher smells bad. The foul odor will transfer to your dishes and what good is that if you have a bad-smelling plate, glass, or spoon and fork? No one wants to use smelly dinnerware.
When your dishwasher overflows, it hits you with an unpleasant double whammy. You’ve got to make time to deal with the mess. And you’ve got to figure out a repair. But don’t worry, Express Repair is here to help you with that repair! Here are a few causes of dishwasher overflow:
- Dishwasher detergent: there are 2 causes from dishwasher detergent that could be causing the problem. The first one is that you have used too much detergent so the suds overflow onto the floor. The second one is that you are using inadequate detergent.
- Door gasket is worn: if your door gasket is worn or damaged, this can cause water to leak out of the dishwasher.
- Faulty water inlet valve: the inlet valve is what delivers the water to your dishwasher. If this inlet valve is not working correctly, it can cause the dishwasher to overflow.
- Broken float assembly or switch: The float is what signals the float switch to turn the water off when it fills enough. If the float or the switch is not working, this will cause your dishwasher to overflow.
It can be very inconvenient when your dishwasher buttons are not working. This is a problem you’re going to want to fix so that you can get back to using your dishwasher as usual.
Usually the issue when it comes to the buttons malfunctioning is the touchpad. You can test out the touchpad by pressing some of the buttons – if some are working but some are not, then the problem is likely the touchpad. To solve this problem you have to replace the touchpad. Some companies sell touchpads separately, while others sell the touchpad and control panel together.
If you need help replacing the touchpad or assessing other problems with your dishwasher, our trained and experienced technicians can help you as soon as possible. Give us a call today and we will help you get your dishwasher back up and running as soon as possible!
Dishwashers are notoriously known for making some noises such as sloshing of the water and whirring of the pump. However, loud and unusual sounds such as grinding, buzzing, and thumping could be a cause of concern. And, quite frankly, the noises are annoying.
A dishwasher that doesn’t wash dishes is essentially useless. You have to put the load on for a second cycle or wash the dishes by hand. Commonly, the reason your dishes are not coming out sparkling clean is that your dishwasher doesn’t dispense soap.
One cause of panic in the kitchen is when you have dishes come out of dishwasher dirty. It’s important that you can rely on your dishwasher to take care of dirty dishes for you.
For a busy person like you, a malfunctioning dishwasher means piles of unsightly and unsanitary soiled, sticky plates and cutlery you don’t have time or strength to deal with.
It’s a good thing that you can remedy this problem. What’s even better is that you avoid this type of problem by properly maintaining the condition of your dishwasher.
When your dishwasher lights start flashing, it can be confusing. You’re probably thinking “why are the lights flashing?!” As well, when the lights are flashing, it usually means the dishwasher has stopped working, which is frustrating.
There are a few reasons why the dishwasher lights may be flashing:
- Heating element isn’t heating water to proper temperature
- Dishwasher door was opened during a cycle
- There was a power interruption during a cycle
- The door was unlatched while the machine was set for a delay start
- The buttons were pressed too many times
- Child lock function is on
Before looking into a repair, you can try resetting your dishwasher and see if that works.
When your dishwasher won’t stop running, it can be a waste of time, water, and electricity. When your dishwasher keeps running endlessly on a cycle, you’re going to want to get it fixed as soon as possible to save yourself on water and electricity bills!
Causes:
- Faulty timer motor: the timer motor is what lets the dishwasher know when to start and stop a cycle. If the timer motor is faulty, it won’t be able to signal the stop of one cycle and the start of another, leaving your dishwasher running.
- Faulty heating element: when there is a problem with the heating element, the cycle may not reach the correct temperature. If the cycle does not reach the correct temperature, the next cycle won’t be signaled to start, leaving the dishwasher to continue running in the current cycle.
- Thermostat problems: if the thermostat is not working properly, it may not be able to accurately read the temperature of a cycle. When the thermostat can’t read the temperature correctly, the next cycle will not be signaled to begin, so it will continue to run endlessly in the current cycle.
- Broken float assembly or switch: The float is what signals the float switch to turn the water off when it fills enough. If the float or the switch is not working, this will cause your dishwasher to overflow.
If your dishwasher door won’t latch, that also means your dishwasher will not be able to run. In order to run a cycle, the door must be properly closed and latched. So, this can be a very frustrating issue.
This issue is commonly the result of broken or malfunctioning parts that will not allow the door to latch properly. In most cases, these parts are fairly simple to replace. These parts include:
- Door latch: the door latch is the part on your dishwasher that latches closed to ensure that no water escapes from your dishwasher, and signals your dishwasher to let it know that it is safe to turn on. If the door latch is not activating when the door closes, there is likely an issue with the latch and it will need to be replaced.
- Strike plate: the strike plate is the area where the door latch locks into. Sometimes the strike plate becomes misaligned, and will simply need to be readjusted into its proper position. If the plate is metal and has become rusty, or if it is plastic and has been damaged, it will need to be replaced.
- Door hinge: the door hinges can become broken, loose, or rusty. Sometimes you can notice there is a problem with the hinges if your dishwasher door is crooked or squealing. If there is a problem with the hinges, they will need to be replaced.
- Door springs: the springs are what allow the door to open and close without any problems. Sometimes a spring has popped out of place, or has become damaged, causing the door to not be able to close properly, and the latch will not lock.
- Door gasket: the door gasket is what forms a watertight seal when the door is closed, ensuring that no water escapes. If the gasket is damaged or deformed, it can prevent the door from closing fully or the latch from being activated.
A dishwasher that doesn’t wash dishes is essentially useless. You have to put the load on for a second cycle or wash the dishes by hand. Commonly, the reason your dishes are not coming out sparkling clean is that your dishwasher doesn’t dispense soap.
One of the most frustrating issues your dishwasher can face is not filling up with water. How can you wash your dishes if the machine isn’t getting water? That’s why you’re going to want to get this issue fixed quickly.
Causes:
- Float: the float rises while the dishwasher fills, and when it reaches a certain point it triggers sensors that stop the water. If the float has gotten stuck in the shut-off position, this will prevent water from entering the dishwasher.
- Dirty valve screens: water passes through inlet valves in order to enter into the dishwasher. These inlet valves have screen filters, and if water is not getting through it could be that these screens are clogged with dirt and debris.
- Water supply line: sometimes the problem isn’t even with the dishwasher itself; it can be with the water supply line. The water supply line could be kinked or damaged. Luckily, if the hose is kinked, you can solve the problem just by straightening it! If the hose is damaged you will have to replace it.
- Door indicator: if there is a problem with the door indicator, the appliance won’t be able to tell if the door is closed properly. The dishwasher will not fill with water unless the door is properly closed.
Common Dishwasher Parts That We Can Replace
- Balance link
- Chopper blade assembly
- Circulation pump motor
- Control panel
- Cycle Selector
- Detergent Holder
- Dispenser
- Door Gasket
- Door hinge
- Door seal
- Drain Hose
- Drain Pump
- Duct & venting
- Float Bulb
- Float Switch
- Heating Element
- Hinge
- Hose and Tube
- Kick Panel
- Latch and Switch
- Macerator
- Main Tub
- Motor
- Outside Connections
- Overfill float switch
- Overfill protection float
- Power supply board
- Rack Adjuster
- Rinse Aid Dispenser
- Spray Arms
- Spring
- Sump motor
- Thermal Fuse
- Thermostat
- Timer
- Tub Gasket
- Vent
- Wash Impeller
- Water Inlet Valve
- Water Intake Valve
- Water Pump
Whirlpool Washer Repair:
Our pros will troubleshoot the problem and have your Whirlpool washing machine spinning like new. We handle model lines like top load (WTW), high-efficiency/smart washers (WTW), front load clothes washers (WFW), plus older models too whether it’s a large 6.1 or 4.5 cu. ft., or a compact 2.6 cu. ft., our technicians are certified to service all errors and issues, including Washer repair:
- The washing machine doesn’t start
- The timer won’t work
- Displays error messages
- The low-profile impeller isn’t working
- Half the 12 cycles don’t seem to work
- The washer doesn’t fill, spin, or drain
- The lid or door won’t lock or open, or it leaks
- The soaker cycle isn’t functioning
- Intuitive controls or other controls are faulty
- Strange noises or burning smell when the machine operates
Contact our customer service reps between 7:30 am and 9 pm to arrange an appointment with our skilled technicians for your Whirlpool washing machine repair.
Other Washing Machine Issues
Do you sometimes wonder why your washer makes strange sounds? It’s common for your washing machine to make some noises. Often, you can resolve the issue by yourself.
However, some strange noises are not normal. You may need to have a professional look into the issues for better diagnosis and solutions.
It’s also important to regularly check and maintain your washer. This way, you protect your washer from totally breaking down.
All washing machines vibrate to some degree. But when your washer is vibrating loud enough to wake the neighbours it’s time to figure out why. Fortuneately, most often excessive vibrations are an easy fix.
There is nothing more frustrating than a washer that stops mid-cycle. You are now left with dirty and wet clothes and is an issue that needs fixing fast.
It’s Monday morning and all your work clothes are in the washer. Just enough time to dry them and still get to work on time. You open the washer lid and there are all your clothes; soaking in a tub full of water.
Washers are heavy-duty household appliances. However, it is common to experience some problems while using it from time to time. One common problem you may encounter is sometimes the water level in washer is low.
There is nothing more frustrating than a washer that stops mid-cycle. You are now left with dirty and wet clothes and is an issue that needs fixing fast.
Do you sometimes wonder why your washer makes strange sounds? It’s common for your washing machine to make some noises. Often, you can resolve the issue by yourself.
The washing machine in your home is meant to keep your clothes looking their best. When your washing machine won’t agitate, it’s time to call us. Our friendly technicians are ready to help you get back up and running quickly.
Causes:
- Obstacle is jammed in the agitator: if something has jammed into your agitator, it simply will not agitate. You can easily check to see if something is jammed in the agitator by opening the lid to your washer and inspecting the agitator.
- The lid switch is broken: when the lid of your washing machine is closed, there is a switch that indicates to the washer that it is good to start washing. If this switch is broken, the washer won’t know that it is good to go, so it will not agitate.
- The drive belt is loose or broken: the motor of your washing machine drives the transmission using something called the drive belt. This belt could have become loose and slipped off or broke, in which case your washing machine will not run.
- The transmission is faulty: the transmission is the part that transmits the power from the motor, which in turn spins the agitator. If this part is broken, your machine will not agitate.
- The motor is broken: the motor is what allows the entire washing machine to run. So, if there is an issue with the motor, the machine will not be able to agitate or run.
Do you sometimes wonder why your washer makes strange sounds? It’s common for your washing machine to make some noises. Often, you can resolve the issue by yourself.
It is extremely frustrating when there is an issue with your door gasket. The main issue that occurs when it comes to the door seal is that it has ripped/is broken, or that it has developed mold.
If the seal is ripped or broken, it can cause water to leak out of your washer and will need to be replaced. Mold on the gasket is very unpleasant – nobody wants to put their laundry into an area with mold! However, it shouldn’t be too much of a problem as they can generally be cleaned easily. You can easily find how to properly clean a gasket online, or use the method below:
- Clean the gasket: using a rag, use hot soapy water to wipe all areas of the gasket, including around and underneath.
- Run a cleaning cycle: run a cycle on empty with no clothes inside the machine. Use the hot water setting and add either 1 cup of bleach or 1 cup of baking soda.
- Repeat the cleaning cycle.
Washers are heavy-duty household appliances. However, it is common to experience some problems while using it from time to time. One common problem you may encounter is sometimes the water level in washer is low.
It probably won’t come as a surprise if I tell you that this is one of the most common problems people face when they use their washing machine. And, it can be an expensive problem too! Leaks can lead to more costly repairs down the line and leave your clothes smelling like mildew.
Causes:
- Faulty gaskets: The washer gasket is the rubber part of the appliance that keeps water from leaking out. When it breaks or gets worn, leaks can form. You might be able to fix this issue by simply taking the front cover off and tightening the bolts. However, if there is more damage, the gasket will have to be replaced.
- Hose leak: the hoses are what connects the water to the machine. So, if the hoses are damaged, the water will leak out. As well, the internal hoses could be damaged, which would cause them to leak during the water cycle. Check your hoses for damage and ensure they are connected properly and tightly.
- Issue with door sealing: if your door is not sealing properly, it will cause the water to leak out. Oftentimes they can’t close properly because there is something obstructing it from fully shutting, such as dirt, built up detergent, and other things. If the seal is damaged, it will simply need to be replaced.
- Pressure switch: the pressure switch is responsible for monitoring the water level inside of a cycle. If this switch is not working, it can cause the washer to overflow and leak.
Nothing is worse than when you have a load of laundry ready to be washed, but then your washing machine won’t start! There are a number of different reasons this could be happening, but don’t worry, because we are here to get to the bottom of it.
Causes:
- Drain hose is broken: if your drain hose is faulty, your machine may hum but won’t start. When the water can’t flow into the washer or drain out because of a broken hose, it is going to have a problem starting. In this case, you will need to replace the hose.
- Water flow: If there is no problem with your house but there seems to be an issue with your machine filling with water, you may not have an efficient water flow. If there is not an efficient water flow, your machine will not be able to start. You can first check to see if the water taps for your machine are fully turned on and open. If the taps are turned properly, you may have a plumbing issue.
- Issue with the pump: something may have blocked the pump such as a sock, or it could simply be damaged or broken. If the pump cannot work properly, the machine won’t be able to start. You will need professional help to get the pump checked safely.
- Motor is broken: if there is a burning smell along with a humming sound when your machine won’t start, your motor may be burnt out. This is a serious issue and the motor will probably need to be replaced. It is wise to contact the professionals when it comes to motor issues.
Washers are heavy-duty household appliances. However, it is common to experience some problems while using it from time to time. One common problem you may encounter is sometimes the water level in washer is low.
Nothing is worse than when you have a load of laundry ready to be washed, but then your washing machine won’t start! There are a number of different reasons this could be happening, but don’t worry, because we are here to get to the bottom of it.
Causes:
- Drain hose is broken: if your drain hose is faulty, your machine may hum but won’t start. When the water can’t flow into the washer or drain out because of a broken hose, it is going to have a problem starting. In this case, you will need to replace the hose.
- Water flow: If there is no problem with your house but there seems to be an issue with your machine filling with water, you may not have an efficient water flow. If there is not an efficient water flow, your machine will not be able to start. You can first check to see if the water taps for your machine are fully turned on and open. If the taps are turned properly, you may have a plumbing issue.
- Issue with the pump: something may have blocked the pump such as a sock, or it could simply be damaged or broken. If the pump cannot work properly, the machine won’t be able to start. You will need professional help to get the pump checked safely.
- Motor is broken: if there is a burning smell along with a humming sound when your machine won’t start, your motor may be burnt out. This is a serious issue and the motor will probably need to be replaced. It is wise to contact the professionals when it comes to motor issues.
There is nothing more annoying than soaking wet clothes and the damage that overflowing water can do to your home. There are many common causes of a washing machine overflowing. Make sure you get the issue fixed as soon as possible to avoid further damage to your home.
Causes:
- Water pressure: If your water pressure is too low, the water inlet valve in your washing machine won’t be able to sense the water and signal the flow to stop when it is full. If the water is not signalled to shut off, the water will continue to flow and your washing machine will overflow. If you need to check your water pressure from your pipes to your washing machine, the pressure should be at a minimum of 20 PSI. If it is lower than 20 PSI, the water inlet valve will not be able to signal the stop of water flow to the machine.
- Pressure switch is broken: the pressure switch is the mechanism that halts the flow of water into the inlet valve. If this pressure switch is broken, it will not be able to stop the water from flowing into the inlet valve, and the water will continue to flow into the machine until it overflows.
- Water inlet valve is broken: as mentioned above, the water inlet valve is what delivers the water into the machine. If this is broken and cannot signal the flow of water to stop when it is at the desired level, the water will continue to flow into the machine and it will overflow. You can check to see if there is an issue with your water inlet valve by unplugging the washing machine while it is filling. If the water continues to flow into the machine while it is unplugged, your water inlet valve is broken and you will need to repair it asap.
When you’re trying to do your laundry but your washer door or lid will not open, that can seem like a problem. Don’t worry too much about it as there is probably a simple cause for your door locking and not opening. Whatever the problem may be, our experts are here to help you.
Causes:
- Blocked locking mechanism: when your washer door is locked and won’t open, the answer could be as simple as something has been caught inside the locking mechanism. If you can see that something is blocking it, try to gently wiggle it out. Don’t use too much force as you could risk damaging the mechanism.
- Broken door lock: if the door lock is broken, it could get jammed in the locked position and will not be able to open. Check your machine manual to see if your washer has a manual release mechanism or suggestions on how to deal with this issue.
- Broken pressure switch: if the pressure switch is broken, it could cause your machine to think it is still full of water, and therefore won’t open the door. This issue should be a rather easy fix by simply unplugging your machine and letting it sit for a couple of minutes. If this is the problem, keep in mind that you will need to replace the pressure switch to avoid future problems.
If you are smelling a burning smell coming from your washing machine, that is not something to take lightly as it can be a cause for concern. A burning smell can indicate a fire hazard, so you will want to get it checked as soon as possible for your safety.
Causes:
- Belt friction: if the smell coming from your washing machine smells like burning rubber and your machine is not agitating or spinning, the issue could be caused by the belt. The belt could be rubbing against the washer tub, causing the burn smell. You can check the belt to see if there is any fraying or splitting. If this is the issue, the belt may need to be replaced.
- Electrical: if the burning smell from your washing machine does not smell like burnt rubber, this could be an electrical issue. There is a possibility that there is water leaking onto the electrical components inside the machine, which could cause a shortage or sparking. You have to be very careful when it comes to electrical issues and will need to get this issue checked out professionally and safely.
- Pump belt: some washing machine water pumps use a rubber belt. If this belt becomes damaged or is having issues, it could cause a burning smell to come from the drain area.
- Motor pulley: your washing machine has a pulley that is in contact with the belts that connect the motor to the drum and the drains. Because it is always in contact with the belt, there will always be friction. This is not an issue, what is an issue is when the motor pulley becomes worn or jammed. This can cause too much friction, which then creates heat and a burning smell. Depending on the state of the pulley, it may need to be replaced.
It is extremely frustrating when there is an issue with your door gasket. The main issue that occurs when it comes to the door seal is that it has ripped/is broken, or that it has developed mold.
If the seal is ripped or broken, it can cause water to leak out of your washer and will need to be replaced. Mold on the gasket is very unpleasant – nobody wants to put their laundry into an area with mold! However, it shouldn’t be too much of a problem as they can generally be cleaned easily. You can easily find how to properly clean a gasket online, or use the method below:
- Clean the gasket: using a rag, use hot soapy water to wipe all areas of the gasket, including around and underneath.
- Run a cleaning cycle: run a cycle on empty with no clothes inside the machine. Use the hot water setting and add either 1 cup of bleach or 1 cup of baking soda.
- Repeat the cleaning cycle.
Common Washing Machine Parts That We Can Replace
- Agitator
- Boot Seal
- Buttons
- Circuit Board
- Control Panel
- Dial
- Door lock
- Drain Hose
- Drum
- Gaskets
- Hall Sensor
- Knobs
- Latch
- Lid Switch
- Motor Pulley
- Off-Balance Switch
- Outlet Line
- Position Sensor
- Rotor
- Seals
- Shock Absorption
- Spin Assembly
- Spin Pulley
- Suspension
- Switch
- Timer Control
- Transmission
- Tubes
- Wash Selector
- Washer Belt
- Water Filter
- Water Inlet Valves
- Water Level Control
- Water Pump
- Water Supply Hose
- Water Valves
- Heating element
- Thermal fuse
Whirlpool Refrigerator Repair:
Whirlpool refrigerators should keep your lettuce crisp and your beverage cold, so when they don’t, give our service specialists a call. We service all model series such as Bottom-Freezer Refrigerators (WRB), Top-Freezer Refrigerators (WRT), Upright Freezers (WZF), Chest Freezers (WZC), Side-by-Side Refrigerators (WRS), French Door Refrigerators (WRF & WRX), Undercounter Beverage Centers (WUB), and under the counter Ice Makers (WUI).
As service specialists for Whirlpool refrigerator repair, we’re here whenever you need it. If your Whirlpool fridge experiences any issues, including Fridge repair:
- The refrigerator doesn’t work
- Food spoils in the fridge
- EZ Connect™ icemaker isn’t functioning
- Frost-Free is icing up
- The flex-Slide bin is stuck
- Coolant puddling on the floor
- Doors or drawers don’t seal
- The drawer won’t pull out or close properly
- The freezer temperature control is not working
- The drain hose isn’t draining
For all your Whirlpool refrigerator or Whirlpool fridge freezer repair or any other Whirlpool maintenance needs, call our customer representatives between 7:30 am and 9 pm. You must be sure to receive the best quality services in no time!
Common fridge issues and the signs it needs a maintenance check!
You rely on your refrigerator to keep your food cold, and the compressor is the part that’s responsible for cooling down the inside of your fridge. This is why when you notice your fridge or freezer compressor is too hot, it is important to get the problem fixed as soon as possible.
Overheated compressors are actually the number-one cause of refrigerator failure. So it is very important to get it fixed right away and do not delay!
Causes:
- The temperature thermostat is broken
- The sealed system is lacking refrigerant
- The condenser fan failed
- The compressor is worn out and overheating
- The fridge is placed in direct sunlight
If you open up your fridge and there is water pooling at the bottom, chances are the defrost drain is clogged. This should be a quick fix and it is very easy for you to take a look at yourself as well. You are going to want to fix this problem as soon as possible to avoid your food from spoiling.
Your drain hole may be clogged with debris. You can try cleaning the drain hole with a special stick for the job, or something like a cotton swab or straw.
There is also the possibility that the defrost drain is clogged with ice. To clear the drain of the ice, use a plumbing snake and push it as far into the drain hole as you can and move it up and down until the clog of ice has been cleared. After this, you should fill the drain with 1 teaspoon of baking soda and slowly pour in 2 cups of hot water. The drain should be able to work again.
If you open up your fridge and notice ice and frost inside, chances are your fridge is not defrosting. When the inside of your fridge looks like winter has arrived, you’re going to want to get the issue fixed so your food does not freeze.
Causes:
- Issue with defrost control board: Your fridge has a control board that directs when it needs to run the automatic defrost cycle. When there is an issue with the control board, the defrost cycle will not run.
- Issue with defrost sensor and fuse: Your fridge comes with a defrost sensor system, and this system monitors the temperature of your evaporator. This part comes with a fuse that is used as a back up in the case of the sensor failing. If the sensor fails to shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow, and the heater will be forced to shut off. If this happens, your heater will no longer work and your fridge will not defrost.
- Defrost timer not working: Your fridge comes with a defrost timer which turns on the defrost heater throughout the day. When the timer is not working, it may not send any power to the defrost heater, meaning the fridge will not defrost.
- Defrost heater not working: The fridge has a defrost heater, which heats up to remove any frost. When the defrost heater is broken, your fridge is unable to defrost.
Suddenly noticing that your normally quiet fridge is too loud can cause alarm in even the most stoic of individuals. Loud or uncommon noises should be taken seriously.
However, there are some proactive things you can do yourself. Properly maintained and cared for, your fridge can be a useful asset to your household for many years.
If your fridge isn’t cooling properly, it could be because it needs a recharge of Freon. The only way your fridge would run out of Freon is if there is a leak in one of the components. There are a few ways to see if you’re out of Freon, or if there is a different issue.
The first thing to do is to locate your fridge’s condenser. Put your hand next to it to see if it is hot. If it feels cold and the refrigerator has been running, there is a chance that you need more Freon.
The next thing you can do is unplug the fridge, turn off the temperature control, and then put your ear up against the side of the fridge. If you hear hissing and gurgling sounds, that means there is Freon in the fridge and working. If you don’t hear anything, this is a sign that could indicate a lack of Freon.
The last thing you need to do is remove the cover from the evaporator. Plug your fridge back into power and turn the temperature control back on, then let the fridge run for a couple of minutes with the door closed. After a few minutes, check the evaporator. If there is no frost, this could mean you need more Freon.
Suddenly noticing that your normally quiet fridge is too loud can cause alarm in even the most stoic of individuals. Loud or uncommon noises should be taken seriously.
We understand how big of a problem it is when your fridge won’t work at all. We rely on our fridges to keep all our food cold and safe to eat. So when your fridge isn’t working, it’s important to get it back up and running before it’s too late and your food spoils.
There is a range of reasons why your fridge might not be working, including:
- Door is not sealing properly
- Refrigerator has been unplugged
- Thermostat not set properly
- Clogged vents
- Dust and debris on fridge coils
- Dust and debris on the fan
- Part breakdowns
When the fan is not working properly in your fridge, the cold air is not circulating which can cause your food to spoil. If you notice your fridge isn’t cooling properly or that something is wrong with the fan, you are going to want to get it fixed ASAP.
Causes:
- Fan is blocked: if the fan is blocked by something, it will not spin. When the fan doesn’t spin, the air will not circulate into the refrigerator cabin.
- Broken Fan Motor: if the motor that spins the fan blades are broken, the entire fan will stop working.
- Thermostat control issues: if the thermostat detects an issue with temperature, it can cause the fan to stop working.
Have you ever gone to get food from your fridge to discover it is frozen?
You then need to wait for your food to thaw before you can eat it, leaving vegetables soggy and food spoiled. While this does not happen often, it can be extremely frustrating to find your fridge is freezing food. If it was meant to be frozen, you’d have put it in the freezer!
Have you ever gone to get food from your fridge to discover it is frozen?
You then need to wait for your food to thaw before you can eat it, leaving vegetables soggy and food spoiled. While this does not happen often, it can be extremely frustrating to find your fridge is freezing food. If it was meant to be frozen, you’d have put it in the freezer!
If there is one common issue with appliances, it is fridge doors not closing properly. The seal around your fridge door is what keeps the cold in. If the door stays open, this seal is broken and warm air will creep in and slowly spoil your food. Your fridge then goes into overdrive to try to keep temperatures down, making it noisy and raising the temperature even further. The overall result? Warm food and a loud, whirring appliance.
Unless you want melted ice cream and defrosted meat, a warm freezer is never a good thing. Your first thought will probably be that the door has been left ajar. However, if you go back later to find that your freezer’s contents are only getting warmer, there is probably a technical reason that your freezer is not cold enough.
There is nothing more frustrating than when your freezer is working but your fridge is not cold enough! There are a couple reasons this could be happening, and you will want to fix the issue as soon as possible to avoid the contents of your fridge going bad!
Causes:
- Overpacked freezer: if your freezer is overly packed, the vents that allow the cold air to flow to the refrigerator may be blocked. When these vents are blocked, the cold air can’t enter the fridge cabin and therefore it will not be cold enough.
- Evaporator fan: the evaporator fan moves the cold air from the freezer into the evaporator, where that air is then pushed into the fridge to keep it cold. If there is a problem with the fan, the freezer will remain cold but the fridge will be warm.
- Defrost system: if your defrost system is not working properly, frost and ice can build up in areas such as the vents or evaporator coils. When this happens, this can cause your freezer to remain cold but your fridge to feel too warm.
If your freezer indicator light is not working, don’t worry. The team at Express Repair can help you. There are 2 common reasons for the indicator light not working:
- Indicator light has burned out: the main cause of the indicator light not working is that it has burned out. Simply replace the light to solve the problem, but check to see if there are any broken wires or detached connections to the indicator light first.
- User control and display board are defective: if the light has not burned out, chances are that the user control and display board need to be replaced.
Unless you want melted ice cream and defrosted meat, a warm freezer is never a good thing. Your first thought will probably be that the door has been left ajar. However, if you go back later to find that your freezer’s contents are only getting warmer, there is probably a technical reason that your freezer is not cold enough.
Opening your fridge to prepare that fresh crispy salad and discovering wilted lettice and limp carrots is enough to send anyone’s imagination into overdrive. Are all my veggies spoiled because of the fresh food compartment warming up? How much does a repairman cost? Can I afford a new fridge right now?
Has your freezer suddenly stopped freezing your food or liquids? We understand that this can be quite concerning as you really don’t want your food to expire because then it’s just wasted money.
You want a drink of refreshing cold water poured straight from your water dispenser. You pick up your glass, put it under the nozzle, and… nothing. No water is gushing out and you’re left without an ice-cold refreshment.
The sight of a puddle under your fridge is enough to make anyone worry, and rightfully so. Your fridge is one of the most important appliances. Without it, you will not be able to keep your food fresh and safe for consumption. This is all the more reason to take action as soon as you notice water dripping or pooling under your fridge.
You want a drink of refreshing cold water poured straight from your water dispenser. You pick up your glass, put it under the nozzle, and… nothing. No water is gushing out and you’re left without an ice-cold refreshment.
In this scorching heat, who wouldn’t want to go for a popsicle or a chilling drink? What would you do if your ice maker was broken? No need to worry, because Express Repair is only a call away!
Wanted some fresh ice cubes for your drink but no ice is coming out? When this happens, you should take the issue seriously as it can be a sign of a deeper problem with your fridge.
However, don’t start stressing out just yet as it’s quite a common problem with ice not coming out of ice maker. Since there are common problems, there are also common solutions which we’ll go into detail about later on in this article.
Having an overflowing ice maker can mean one of two things. Either your ice maker is producing normal size ice cubes but in excess, or there is an overflow of water into your ice maker so that there is now a large chunk of ice at the base. Honestly, neither problem is ideal.
However, you’ll be pleased to hear that both are an easy fix. To stop problems like this occurring again in the future, we recommend regular maintenance on your kitchen appliances.
Wanted some fresh ice cubes for your drink but no ice is coming out? When this happens, you should take the issue seriously as it can be a sign of a deeper problem with your fridge.
Freezers are supposed to be cold, but a build-up of ice in your freezer is not wanted. It can mean all the contents are covered in a layer of frost, which can damage the food. It can also cause your freezer to malfunction as the freezer cannot regulate its temperature if vents are covered over in a layer of ice.
n this scorching heat, who wouldn’t want to go for a popsicle or a chilling drink? What would you do if your ice maker was broken? No need to worry, because Express Repair is only a call away!
Common Fridge Parts That We Can Replace
- AL-Heater
- Air filter
- BI-Meter
- Bulb Holder
- Compressor motor
- Condenser Fan Motor
- Copper Tube
- Crisper drawer
- Defrost bi-metal thermostat
- Defrost heater and thermistor
- Defrost timer or board
- Door Switch
- Door shelf bin
- Drain water sink try
- Drain water tub
- Evaporator Fan Motor
- Evaporator coil
- Freezer door
- Fridge Defrost button
- Fridge Door Gasket
- Fuse
- Icemaker
- Inlet valve
- Insulation
- Main Control Board
- PTC Starter
- Partition Iron meshes
- Reciprocating compressors
- Relay Olp
- Rotary compressors
- Run capacitor
- Scroll compressors
- Start relay
- Temperature Control
- Thermostat
- Thermostat Knob
- Water Inlet Valve
- Water filter
| Failure Code | Fault Code Description | Solution |
| 4 Digit Failure Codes (for 2 digit codes see below) | ||
| F1 – E0 | EEPROM communication error | 1. Disconnect power for at least 30 seconds. 2. Re-apply power and observe for at least one minute. 3. If code re-appears, replace control board (also called ERC or clock). Note: Applies to all F1-E… codes except F1-E3. |
| F1 – E1 | EEPROM checksum error | |
| F1 – E2 | UL A/D error(s) | |
| F1 – E4 | Model ID error | |
| F1 – E5 | Calibration shifted | |
| F1 – E6 | Latch signal mismatch error | |
| F1 – E9 | Stack overflow | |
| F1 – E3 | Wiring harness cavity size does not match previously stored value | The “Cavity Size Select” jumpers in the wiring harness indicate a cavity size different from that which the control was previously configured for. Check the jumpers in the harness to make sure they agree with the actual oven size. |
| F2 – E0 | Shorted keypad (also called touch pad) | 1. Check keypad connector for firm connection (keypad connects to control board). 2. Press CANCEL. If error code returns after 60 seconds, replace keypad (also called touch pad or membrane switch). Some models incorporate keypad in to control board as one unit. In this case, replace control board (also called ERC or clock). |
| F2 – E1 | Keypad cable unplugged | |
| F2 – E5 | Cancel key drive line open | |
| F2 – E6 | Cancel key drive line open | |
| F3 – E0 | Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven, if double oven) | Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD)
Note: Applies to all F3-E… codes. |
| F3 – E1 | Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven, if double oven) | |
| F3 – E2 | Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode) | |
| F3 – E3 | Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode) | |
| F3 – E4 | Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven, if double oven) | |
| F3 – E5 | Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven, if double oven) | |
| F3 – E6 | Warming drawer sensor open | |
| F3 – E7 | Warming drawer sensor shorted | |
| F4 – E1 | Meat probe malfunction – shorted | Problem could be with the probe, the receptacle, or probe circuit. Check probe. Look for pinched wire. Look for condensation or contamination on probe receptacle. Replace probe if all else checks out ok. |
| F5 – E0 | Door switches do not agree (condition exists when door switch is closed indicating an open door, and latch switch is closed indicating a locked door) | 1. If door latched: A. Disconnect power from unit.B. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.C. Replace door switch.D. Re-apply power.E. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.2. If door not latched:A. Disconnect power from unit.B. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.C. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective. 4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION – oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective. 5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct. 6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control. Note: Applies to all F5-E… codes. |
| F5 – E1 | Self clean latch will not lock | |
| F5 – E2 | Latch during CLEAN error | |
| F5 – E5 | Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes. | |
| F5 – E6 | Door is open, but latch is locked | |
| F5 – E7 | Self clean latch will not unlock | |
| F6 – E0 | Return line not connected | If switch pulse return line is not connected, electronic control will display F6 within 60 seconds after power up. Replace control. |
| F7 – E1 | Common switch wire is defective | Common wire (+5VDC) to latch switch, and to door switch is shorted to chassis ground or neutral. A double oven will have two of each switch and one common wire. 1. Check connections at control and at the latch switch and door switch. 2. If all connections are good, then check the individual switches as outlined for the F5 failure. |
| F0 | Board failure | Replace control board (also called ERC or clock). | |
| F1 | Board failure | Replace control board (also called ERC or clock). | |
| F2 | Oven temperature is too high | 1. Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC). 2. For SELF CLEAN models: check door lock operation. 3. Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective. Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit, not actual oven temperature. | |
| F3 | Oven temperature sensor (RTD) open | Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD) | |
| F4 | Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted | Replace Oven temperature sensor (RTD) | |
| F5 | Board failure | Replace control board (also called ERC or clock). | |
| F7 | Function key stuck on ERC | Replace control board (also called ERC or clock). | |
| F8 | Board failure | Replace control board (also called ERC or clock). | |
| F9 | Oven door lock failure | Check wiring to door lock switch (the wire harness may be connected wrong). Check for stuck lock switch. |
| Failure Code | Fault Code Description | Solution | |
| FH | No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected. | If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed. Or If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. Potential Causes • If there is no water in the unit: – Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way. – Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves – Verify inlet valve operation • If there is water in the unit: – Verify Drain pump operation – Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch • Verify there is not a siphon problem • Verify wire harness connections to; Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU) • Check all hoses for possible leaks • Verify pressure switch operation • Verify flow meter operation • Verify CCU operation Replace failed component. | |
| F02 | Long Drain | If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes, the water valves are turned off and F02 is flashed.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. NOTE: After 4 minutes the “Sud” error will be displayed, then 4 minutes later the F02 error code will be displayed. Potential Causes | |
| F05 | Water temperature sensor error | If during the water heating step in the wash cycle, the water temperature sensor (NTC) value is out of range, or the heating element circuit has failed, the F05 error code will be displayed.
Potential Causes • Check the Water Temperature Sensor, Heating Element and Element Relay Replace failed component. | |
| F06 | Drive motor tachometer error | The control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will shut down. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin the door will be unlocked after 3 minutes.
Potential Causes • Check wire harness connections between the Drive Motor/Tachometer and the Motor ControlUnit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU) Replace failed component. | |
| F07 | Motor control unit error | The Central Control Unit has detected a short in the motor control unit. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin the door will be unlocked after 3 minutes.
Potential Causes • Check wire harness connections between the Drive Motor and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU) Replace failed component. | |
| F09 | Overflow condition | If the Overflow contact on the pressure switch is Closed for more than 60 seconds an Overflow condition will occur. In an Overflow condition, the Door will remain locked, and the Drain Pump will run constantly, even if PAUSE/CANCEL is pressed twice and the Display is cleared. Unplug the unit to service.
Potential Causes • Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked Replace failed component. | |
| F10 | Motor Control Unit (MCU) heat sink thermal trip | If the thermal protector on the MCU heat sink gets too hot, it will open the thermal protector on the heat sink which will stop motor functions and an F10 will be displayed.
Potential Causes • Check for Proper Installation, verify the unit is not located near a source of heat and has proper ventilation. Replace failed component. | |
| F11 | Serial communication error | Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.
Potential Causes • Check Wire Harness connections to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU) Replace failed component. | |
| F13 | Dispenser circuit error | If the dispenser motor is not able to be driven to it’s proper position.
Potential Causes • Check mechanical linkage from dispenser motor to the top of the dispenser. Replace failed component. | |
| F14 | EEPROM error | The Central Control Unit (CCU) receives it’s data from an EEPROM onboard the CCU. If there is an error reading this data it will cause this error.
Potential Causes • A power glitch may cause this error. Try unplugging the Unit for two minutes to see if that fixes the error. Replace failed component. | |
| F15 | Motor Control Unit (MCU) error | If the MCU detects multiple resets or errors during a wash cycle it will go into this error mode.
Potential Causes • Check Wire Harness connections to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU) Replace failed component. | |
| Sud | SUDS LOCK (Overdose of detergent detected during the wash cycle) | The motor control unit senses a suds lock condition by analyzing the current draw on the drive motor. If “Sud” is displayed a potential suds lock is detected. This may signify a bad pump, an extra heavy load, excessive detergent, or excessive suds.
Potential Causes • If too much detergent was used, run the unit through a Rinse/ Spin cycle then a Normal cycle without adding any detergent. This should clear the unit of the excess detergent. Replace failed component. | |
| FdL | Door lock error | A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be locked. It will try to lock it 6 times before displaying the error.
Potential Causes • Door Lock Mechanism broken or removed from the Door Replace failed component. | |
| FdU | Door unlock error | A Door Unlock Error occurs if the door cannot be unlocked. It will try to unlock the door 6 times before displaying the error.
Potential Causes • Door Lock Mechanism broken. Replace failed component. Note: The door lock/switch assembly can be manually unlocked. To Manually unlock the door lock system: 1. Unplug the power cord from the outlet. | |
| Failure Code | Fault Code Description | Solution |
| PF | Power failure | “PF” flashes to indicate that a power failure occurred while the dryer was running. Press HOLD TO START to continue the cycle, or press OFF/Pause to clear the display. |
| E1 | Thermistor open | Replace thermistor if found defective |
| E2 | Thermistor shorted | Replace thermistor if found defective |
| Failure Code | Fault Code Description | Solution | |
| PF | Power failure | “PF” flashes if the washer loses power during a running cycle. The washer does not flash “PF” when it is first plugged in.
Press START to continue the cycle from the moment that power was lost. OR | |
| FL | Flood condition | “FL” flashes if any overfill condition occurs. This condition occurs when excessive water in the tub causes the overfill switch to trip. The control must realize that the trip was due to an overfill condition instead of a suds lock condition in order for “FL” to be displayed.
With an overfill condition, the beeper repeats a warning every 10 seconds with no time out. The pump is cycled in drain mode for 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off until the overfill switch resets or power is discontinued to the unit. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| Er | Processor reset error | This error code is displayed if the control failed to save cycle information during a power failure. This does not generate an error code beep.
Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| LF | Long fill | If the water fill time exceeds ten minutes, the water valves are turned off and “LF” is flashed.
Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| CE | Communications error | If there is any breakdown in communication between the machine controller and the motor controller, “CE” flashes and the unit beeps once.
Some common causes of “CE” errors include: • Conformal coating on serial communications pins between the machine controller and motor controller. After disconnecting power to the unit, try scraping this coating off the pins. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| Ld | Long drain | “Ld” flashes if it takes longer than 5 minutes to pump out water to a point where the operating pressure switch resets.
Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| CA or CI | Average current limit or Instantaneous current limit | If a status signal comes back from the motor controller that a current limit has been breached, the unit will return to standby mode and display either “CA” for average current limit trip or “CI” for instantaneous current limit trip.
Average current trip occurs if there is a 2 second average of current draw greater than 5.55 Amps at the motor windings. Instantaneous current trip occurs if there is a spike of 26 Amps instantly at the motor windings. This may signify problems with the drive motor, thermal protector or motor controller. Overloading the unit may cause this problem. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| ob | Off balance | If the motor controller detects an unrecoverable off-balance condition, the machine controller will shut down and display an “ob” for off balance.
The lid switch must be opened at least once before restarting the cycle, if this condition occurs. Opening the lid will allow you to view and redistribute the load. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| Sr | Stuck relay | “Sr” signifies a failure of the relay in the closed position. With this failure, power to the motor controller cannot be turned off by the machine controller.
The machine control board may have a bad relay and may need to be replaced. Check pins 1 and 5 of P16 of the machine controller and pins 1 and 2 of P1 of the motor controller. This should have AC line voltage when the motor controller is powered. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| LS | Lid switch error | The control should flash this error code if it cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly. This error code may also be used if there is a disagreement between the motor and machine controllers on the state of the lid switch. The control should not allow the unit to run in this condition.
This code will also appear if the user presses the START key while the lid is open. Open the lid or press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. | |
| Flashing display time | Open lid | If the lid opens while the unit is in running mode, time remaining will flash in the display.
Close the lid and press START to continue with the cycle. | |
| SL | Suds lock | The motor controller senses a suds lock condition by analyzing the current draw on the drive motor. If a potential suds lock is detected, the control tries up to 3 times to clean out the unit with a mini-cycle.
“SL” is displayed if suds are detected but the unit is unable to clean out suds. This may indicate a bad pump, an extra heavy load, excessive detergent or excessive suds. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display | |
These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your Whirlpool dishwasher.
| Error Code | Condition | Check/Repair | Shop Parts |
| Clean light blinks 7 times | Heater circuit failure. Control didn’t detect the expected rise in water temperature. | Check the heating element and related components (wiring and control board) in that circuit. | Heating element, Electronic control board, Thermistor, Circuit wiring |
| Console light blinks rapidly | The control detects a stuck button on the control panel. | A failed control panel or a malfunctioning electronic control board can cause this code. Check the buttons on the control panel using a volt/ohm meter. In most cases, the control panel must be replaced. If that doesn’t solve the problem, the electronic control board might be at fault. | Control panel, Electronic control board |
| Start/Resume light blinks slowly | If the dishwasher door is opened or power is interrupted during the cycle, the dishwasher won’t start again until the door is detected as closed and the Start/Resume button is pressed. | Check the door latch and switch assembly. A failure in the Start/Resume button also can cause this problem. | Door switch assembly, Control panel, Electronic control board |
| Clean light stays on | The dishwasher won’t start a new cycle unless it detects that the door opened after the previous cycle. | Turn off power to the dishwasher by shutting off the breaker and restarting. If that does not work, the door switch assembly is stuck and must be replaced. | Door switch assembly |
| Control lock LED is on but not accepting key presses | Accidentally turned on or control detected keypad problem. | Press the Heated Dry key for 5 seconds to turn off control lock feature. If that doesn’t work, replace keypad. | Keypad |
| Sanitized LED blinks at end of cycle | Control couldn’t confirm that the dishes were sanitized. | Check voltage to the dishwasher and the temperature of incoming water. Check the diverter motor, the heater and the OWI/thermistor. | Diverter motor, Heater, Thermistor |
These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your Whirlpool HE dishwasher.
| Error Code | Condition | Check/Repair | Shop Parts |
| 1-1 | The electronic control board detects a stuck relay on its circuit board. | Shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, have a service technician check the wiring and components. If the wiring and components are in working order, replace the electronic control board. | Electronic control board |
| 1-2 | Damaged or corrupted memory on control board. Incompatible software components inside microprocessor. | Shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, replace the electronic control board. | Electronic control board |
| 2-1 | The electronic control board detected a stuck key on the control panel. | See if any keys work. If no keys work or the control panel is damaged, replace the electronic control panel. If the control panel works, the problem might be with the electronic control board. | Control panel, Electronic control board |
| 2-2 | The electronic control board detects no communication from the control panel. | See if any keys work. If no keys work or the control panel is damaged, replace the electronic control panel. If the control panel works, the problem might be with the electronic control board. | Control panel, Electronic control board |
| 3-1 | Either there’s a break in the wiring or the thermistor/OWI component failed. (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.) | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring for the thermistor/OWI circuit. If the circuit wiring is undamaged, replace the thermistor/OWI component. | Thermistor/OWI, Wire harness |
| 3-2 | The thermistor/OWI circuit is electrically shorted, (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.) | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring for the thermistor/OWI circuit. If the circuit wiring is undamaged, replace the thermistor/OWI component. | Thermistor/OWI, Wire harness |
| 3-3 | OWI fails (the OWI is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water) | Shut off power to the dishwasher and clean the OWI. If the code resumes when you restore power, replace the OWI. | Thermistor/OWI |
| 4-1 | No communication between the electronic control board and the wash pump motor | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring from the control board to the wash pump motor. If the wiring is undamaged, replace the wash pump. If the problem persists, replace the electronic control board. | Wash pump motor, Electronic control board |
| 4-2 | Communication error between the electronic control board and the wash pump motor | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring from the control board to the wash pump motor. If the wiring is undamaged, replace the wash pump. If the problem persists, replace the electronic control board. | Wash pump motor, Electronic control board |
| 5-1 | Door won’t latch shut | Press the Start button and immediately close the door. If the code continues, shut off power to the dishwasher and check the door latch mechanism and the wiring attached to the door switch. If the latch mechanism and the wiring are intact, replace the door switch. | Door switch, Door latch assembly |
| 5-2 | Door won’t open | Check the wiring in the door switch. If the wiring is undamaged, replace the door switch. | Door switch, Door latch assembly |
| 6-1 | The electronic control board doesn’t detect water entering the dishwasher tub. | Shut off power and then water to the dishwasher. Check the water supply for proper flow and pressure. Check the wiring to the water inlet valve. If the wiring and the water supply are in working order, replace the water inlet valve. | Water inlet valve |
| 6-2 | Water inlet valve has an electrical problem. | Shut off power and then water to the dishwasher. Check the water supply for proper flow and pressure. Check the wiring to the water inlet valve. If the wiring and the water supply are in working order, replace the water inlet valve. If the problem continues, replace the electronic control board. | Water inlet valve, Electronic control board |
| 6-3 | Suds or air are in the water pump | Check the water fill level and check for suds in the fill water at the bottom of the tub. if the fill level is too low, replace the water inlet valve. If there’s excessive sudsing, check the detergent dispenser and replace if it’s damaged. | Water inlet valve, Detergent dispenser |
| 6-4 | The float switch is open | Check the overfill float switch to see if it’s stuck or if an item is stuck under it. Check if the inlet water fill valve is properly shutting off the water supply when the dishwasher is off. | Water inlet valve, Overfill float switch |
| 6-6 | Incoming water is too cold | Use an accurate thermometer to check the water temperature. If it’s lower than 110 degrees F, check your water heater. If the water temperature is normal (110 to 120 degrees F), replace the thermistor/OWI or the electronic control board. Refer to the tech sheet for your dishwasher for a diagnostic test for the thermistor. | Thermistor/OWI, Electronic control board |
| 6-7 | Disconnected or damaged flow meter | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring to the flow meter. If the wiring is intact, replace the flow meter. | Flow meter |
| 6-8 | Problem with water softener regeneration valve | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring to the water softener regeneration valve. If the wiring is intact, replace the water softener regeneration valve. | Water softener regeneration valve |
| 7-1 | Heating element doesn’t work | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Inspect the heating element and replace it if it’s visibly damaged. If not, check the wiring to the heating element. If the wiring is intact, replace the heating element. | Heating element |
| 7-2 | Heating element won’t shut off | Shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, replace the electronic control board. | Electronic control board |
| 8-1 | Slow drain | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then shut off water. Check the drain path for an obstruction. If the drain path is clear, check the wiring on the drain pump. If the wiring is intact, replace the drain pump. | Drain pump |
| 8-2 | Drain pump electrical problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then shut off water. Check the wiring on the drain pump. If the wiring is intact, replace the drain pump. | Drain pump |
| 9-1 | Electronic control board can’t detect the position of the diverter | The diverter directs the water through the lower spray arm or the upper spray arm. Turn off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring going to the diverter motor. If the wiring is intact, replace the diverter. | Diverter |
| 9-2 | Diverter is stuck on | Remove the lower dishrack and the lower spray arm. Disassemble the sump. Check the diverter disk and replace if visibly damaged. | Diverter disk |
| 10-1 | Dispenser electrical problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Remove the outer door panel and check the wiring in the detergent dispenser circuit. If the wiring is intact, replace the detergent dispenser. | Detergent dispenser |
| 10-2 | Vent wax motor electrical problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring in the vent wax motor circuit. If the wiring is intact, replace the vent wax motor. | Vent wax motor |
| 10-3 | Drying fan problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring in the drying fan circuit. If the wiring is intact, replace the drying fan. | Drying fan |
These error code explanations can help you diagnose a problem with your Whirlpool HE dishwasher.
| Error Code | Condition | Check/Repair | Shop Parts |
| 1-1 | The electronic control board detects a stuck relay on its circuit board | Shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, have a service technician check the wiring and components. If the wiring and components are in working order, replace the electronic control board. | Electronic control board |
| 1-2 | Failed or incompatible electronic control board | The code appears if you install the wrong electronic control board. Order and install the correct electronic control board for your model of dishwasher. If the code appears and you didn’t just replace the electronic control board, shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, replace the electronic control board. | Electronic control board |
| 2-1 | The electronic control board detected a stuck key on the control panel. | See if any keys work. If no keys work or the control panel is damaged, replace the electronic control panel. If the control panel works, the problem might be with the electronic control board. | Control panel, Electronic control board |
| 3-1 | Either there’s a break in the wiring or the thermistor/OWI component failed. (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.) | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring for the thermistor/OWI circuit. If the circuit wiring is undamaged, replace the thermistor/OWI component. | Thermistor/OWI, Wire harness |
| 3-2 | The thermistor/OWI circuit is electrically shorted, (The thermistor is the water temperature sensor, the OWI is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water.) | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring for the thermistor/OWI circuit. If the circuit wiring is undamaged, replace the thermistor/OWI component. | Thermistor/OWI, Wire harness |
| 3-3 | OWI fails (the OWI is the Optical Water Indicator that detects the amount of debris in the water) | Shut off power to the dishwasher and clean the OWI. If the code resumes when you restore power, replace the OWI | Thermistor/OWI |
| 4-3 | The electronic control board does not detect motor operation | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring from the control board to the wash pump motor. If the wiring is okay, replace the wash pump. If the problem continues, replace the electronic control board. | Wash pump motor, electronic control board |
| 5-1 | Door won’t latch shut | Press the Start button and immediately close the door. If the code continues, shut off power to the dishwasher and check the door latch mechanism and the wiring attached to the door switch. If the latch mechanism and the wiring are intact, replace the door switch. | Door switch, Door latch assembly |
| 5-2 | Door won’t open | Check the wiring in the door switch. If the wiring is undamaged, replace the door switch. | Door switch, Door latch assembly |
| 6-1 | The electronic control board doesn’t detect water entering the dishwasher tub. | Shut off power and then water to the dishwasher. Check the water supply for proper flow and pressure. Check the wiring to the water inlet valve. If the wiring and the water supply are in working order, replace the water inlet valve. | Water inlet valve |
| 6-2 | Water inlet valve has an electrical problem. | Shut off power and then water to the dishwasher. Check the water supply for proper flow and pressure. Check the wiring to the water inlet valve. If the wiring and the water supply are in working order, replace the water inlet valve. If the problem continues, replace the electronic control board. | Water inlet valve, Electronic control board |
| 6-3 | Suds or air are in the water pump | Check the water fill level and check for suds in the fill water at the bottom of the tub. if the fill level is too low, replace the water inlet valve. If there’s excessive sudsing, check the detergent dispenser and replace if it’s damaged. | Water inlet valve, Detergent dispenser |
| 6-4 | The float switch is open | Check the overfill float switch to see if it’s stuck or if an item is stuck under it. Check if the inlet water fill valve is properly shutting off the water supply when the dishwasher is off. | Water inlet valve, Overfill float switch |
| 6-6 | Incoming water is too cold | Use an accurate thermometer to check the water temperature. If it’s lower than 110 degrees F, check your water heater. water heater. If the water temperature is normal (110 to 120 degrees F), replace the thermistor/OWI or the electronic control board. Refer to the tech sheet for your dishwasher for a diagnostic test for the thermistor. | Thermistor/OWI, Electronic control board |
| 6-7 | Disconnected or damaged flow meter | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring to the flow meter. If the wiring is intact, replace the flow meter. | Flow meter |
| 6-8 | Water softener regeneration valve electrical problem (Water Softener Models Only) | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring for the regeneration valve. Reconnect any loose wires. Replace the wire harness if damaged. Replace the regeneration valve if the wiring is okay. If the problem persists, replace the electronic control board. | Regeneration valve, wiring harness, electronic control board |
| 7-1 | Heating element doesn’t work | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Inspect the heating element and replace it if it’s visibly damaged. If not, check the wiring to the heating element. If the wiring is intact, replace the heating element. | Heating element |
| 7-2 | Heating element won’t shut off | Shut off power to the dishwasher for 5 minutes. If the code resumes when you restore power, replace the electronic control board. | Electronic control board |
| 8-1 | Slow drain | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then shut off water. Check the drain path for an obstruction. If the drain path is clear, check the wiring on the drain pump. If the wiring is intact, replace the drain pump. | Drain pump |
| 8-2 | Drain pump electrical problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher and then shut off water. Check the wiring on the drain pump. If the wiring is intact, replace the drain pump. | Drain pump |
| 8-3 | Drain pump stuck on | Shut off power to the dishwasher and check the drain pump wiring. Replace the wire harness if damaged. If the wiring is okay, replace the electronic control board. | Electronic control board, wire harness |
| 9-1 | Electronic control board can’t detect the position of the diverter | The diverter directs the water through the lower spray arm or the upper spray arm. Turn off power to the dishwasher and then check the wiring going to the diverter motor. If the wiring is intact, replace the diverter. | Diverter |
| 9-2 | Diverter is stuck on | Remove the lower dishrack and the lower spray arm. Disassemble the sump. Check the diverter disk and replace if visibly damaged. | Diverter disk |
| 9-3 | Diverter disk is missing | Remove the lower dishrack and the lower spray arm. Disassemble the sump. Check to see if the diverter disk is missing. If the disc is missing, install a new disk. | Diverter disk |
| 10-1 | Dispenser electrical problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Remove the outer door panel and check the wiring in the detergent dispenser circuit. If the wiring is intact, it could have a defective detergent dispenser or electronic control board. | Detergent dispenser, electronic control board |
| 10-2 | Vent wax motor electrical problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring in the vent wax motor circuit. If the wiring is intact, it could have a defective vent wax motor or electronic control board. | Vent wax motor, electronic control board |
| 10-3 | Drying fan problem | Shut off power to the dishwasher. Check the wiring in the drying fan circuit. If the wiring is intact, could have a defective drying fan or electronic control board. | Drying fan, electronic control board |
SERVICE AREAS:
- Bayside
- Beaver Bank
- Big Lake
- Blind Bay
- Chester
- Dartmouth
- Eastern Passage
- Ellershouse
- Fall River
- French Village
- Glen Haven
- Glen Margaret
- Goodwood
- Hacketts Cove
- Hammonds Plains
- Hantsport
- Herring Cove
- Halifax
- Hubley
- Indian-Harbour
- Lawrencetown
- Lower Sackville
- Margarets Bay
- Middle Sackville
- Newport
- New Ross
- Peggys Cove
- Prospect
- Prospect Bay
- Scotch Village
- Seabright
- Shad Bay
- Tantallon
- Timberlea
- Upper Hammonds Plains
- Upper Sackville
- Upper Tantallon
- West Dover
- Williamswood
- Windsor
- Wolfville
- Bedford
